THIRTH AND FINAL EPISODE
SOLORUN OVER THE PEAKS OF THE PYRENEESSIXTEEN DAYS, 650 KM AND 36000 M ASCENT
Dear followers,
this is the final episode of my running adventure throughout the Pyrenees, last summer. I pick up the thread in the village of Estaon, where I was hypnotized by the voice of Nina Simone, filling the refuge. I had been running fast all day and decided to go on, hoping to arrive before nighttime at La Guingueta d'Aneu.
THE GHOST VILLAGE OF DORVE
I climbed up a 1000 meters and had to search for the right path for a while. As I decided to run along the ridge on compass, I suddenly found myself at the edge of a ravine. Impossible to climb down, I had to go back and find myself another route. All the way down to the abandoned village of Dorve, I had to run off track, hurting myself at the multiple torn bushes. Thunder was audible and the first raindrops started to fall. I started to get really tired and frustrated, not finding a way down to the ruined village that was visible down there. As I finally decided to run straight down, I suddenly heard a man screaming at me. The figure seemed to have popped out of a biblical story. A shepherd dressed in rags, long tousled hair and a beard was furious, as I seemed to have separated his herd of sheep running straight through it. I apologized, but this man didn't seem to be ready to have a friendly conversation as he came towards me brandishing a big stick above his head. I ran on leaving him behind and arrived in Dorve, where a creepy feeling got a hold of me. Different from other ruins, the houses here still had remains of paint on the walls. The well was functioning and despite the silence, it felt like as if someone was there. My feeling got confirmed as I found a fireplace still smoking in what used to be the church. Fleeing this place I reached the road and it appeared to me how wonderfully located this place was. Why did people leave this town ? Plenty of possibilities, from agriculture to tourism are possible here. After a short and steep descend I reached the reservoir of La Guingueta, where I was going to spend the night. Exhausted I fell a sleep, thinking about the beauty of the Parc National des Alt Pireneus where I had been running through. The days to come, the Parc National de Aïguestortes was to cross.
AIGUESTORTES, GORDIOUS LAKES AND TOURISTS ALL OVER
I felt quite broken in the morning, but the sun and running up the mountain soon made me feel better. After about 11 kilometers I arrived in the small village of Jou. Suddenly I found myself in a garden, where five women talking coffee looked up surprised. They very mothering showed me the right way through the village. Continuing all the way to Espot, I refreshed myself and took some time to eat. Reborn I engaged the long way up the river towards the Estany the San Maurici. A very touristic spot and never before on this trip I met so many people wandering around. Jeeps were talking the tourists up to the Estany and many of them returned downhill by foot. I ran the whole distance as the ascent was never too steep and the path never technically difficult. Reaching the lake was the first marvelous feeling of many to come further on. After a moment of contemplation I decided to move on following the right shore of the lake to reach the other touristic highlight of this National Parc: the Cascada de Ratera. At this powerful waterfall I took some rest and saw how some tourists took a big risk climbing over the fence to have a picture of them taken on one of the slippery rocks in the middle of the violent torrent. From there towards the refugi the Colomers, there were little tourists left. The terrain being to heavy for most of the families with children. The beauty of nature was overwhelming. One lake after the other in colors from emerald green to cobalt blue surrounded by granite massifs. With such a visual spectacle, I didn't feel the slightest fatigue. At the bank of another astonishing lake, a young woman went naked for an ice cold dive in the water. As I passed she smiled at me and said it's 'frio'. 'Es bueno ! Bravo!' I replied. Reaching the dam of the Colomers reservoir I ran over it and had hoped that a short stop in the refuge would give me back the strength to carrie on. But instead I felt a great fatigue coming up. As the sky covered up with clouds and it turned very cold I decided to sleep in the refuge. At first there didn't seem to be a place left. Disappointed and already preparing myself to move on, the guardian came outside and told me I could sleep in the restaurant, where they can put up a camp bed. Relieved I accepted the offer. At my table there was a family from the Netherlands. Their two children literally fell a sleep while eating. There were two guys who were running Carros de Foc, A tour off four days in the surrounding mountains. They listened to my adventure with great interest. Another couple from Madrid invited me to play a game of domino with them. After a couple of rounds and good laughs, the girl from the staff told me they found a bed in one of the dormitories for me.
DANGEROUS COCKTAIL: A SLEEPLESS NIGHT AND DIFFICULT TERRAIN
A snorer and a crying baby kept me up all night. I regretted not to have slept in the restaurant instead of accepting the bed in the dormitory. From the start I made a mistake, taking a Variant of the GR11 route, making 6 extra kilometers and about 400 meters of ascent above the normal route to get to the refugi della restanca. A very beautiful place, once again at the bank of a reservoir lake. From there I ran over the dam and the terrain was technical. My progress was slow, as running was impossible most of the time. I hoped that over the edge, downhill would be easier, but nothing like it. My legs felt heavy, uncertain with every single step. I fell hard on my back, lucky to have my backpack that cushioned my fall. Never the less, this wilderness is extremely attractive. Close to the sky, far from human activity, no cows, no goats or sheep. Only wild animals like marmots, raptors and some Izards as a company. I saw the biggest lizard I ever spotted in Europe. About 30 centimeters he flashed over the stones. As the rocks to climb made place for a long run down along the river, I forgot how tired my legs were and suddenly my foot got stuck. I felt a wave of pain as I over stretched my front thigh muscle. The pain gradually took of as I pursued my path. In the end, I was just hobbling down, reaching the road, where a refuge seemed abandoned. I had so much set my hope on arriving in this place and now it seemed closed. Nothing to do about it I ran further, till I reached a brand new refuge, not even mentioned in my guide. The wooden chalet was so welcoming. I slept until seven, ate a good meal with a Basque that was wearing a Finisher T-shirt of the Ultra Trail d'Emmona, which I ran last year. As I told him what I was doing, the name of Kilian Jornet Burgada came up. Another Basque tried to tease me, saying Kilian did what I'm doing in 7 days. I very soon understood that whenever Pyreneans talk about Kilian, they no longer consider them being Aragonese, Catalonian, Basque, Huescan or French. They are considering Kilian as a subject of proud beyond the set out borders of linguistic, cultural and original differences. Exaggerations are never far away, as if the amazing accomplishments he achieved are not enough. Two engineers from Madrid, spoke fluid english and I was glad to have an easy conversation for once.
THE ANETO (3404m), HIGHEST MOUNTAIN OF THE PYRENEES.
I left in the dark around half past five in the morning, determined to make up the time lost due to my fatigue the day before. I felt great in the morning air, running fast past the Vielha lake engaging the huge climb up to the southern flank of the Pic d'Aneto. The climb goes over different stages. First along the river and then up to three times steep and technical climbing. Each time I thought I had reached the top, another vertical landscape revealed itself. Once over the tree frontier, I ran through grassy plains and beautiful lakes, turning more and more into a mineral world. In one word: 'Glorious !' Under the clear blue sky, I soon got through my water supplies and decided to drink from the water resulting from the rocks above 2500 meters. My climb ended at 2750m and my head was turning from the exertion. The Aneto was inviting me to complete the last 700, but my goal was to get to the ocean. Because of the heat, storms and mistakes in route, plus the fatigue and aching feet my goal of 16 days was no longer possible. I didn't feel disappointed about this, knowing I had four extra days left and if all went well, the ocean was still in sight. I had learned that the mountains are in charge. No one leaves the shore in a heavy storm at sea. The same prudence counts in the mountains. Not accepting this can be suicide.
From the top I first had to climb down a long vertical slope of sand and loose rock. Once over that obstacle a huge avalanche of big rocks lied ahead of me. Scrambling and jumping where possible, I found great pleasure in this games like activity. After crossing a couple of snowfields, I regretted the end of it but as I could run fast down the valley towards Puen the Corones, I felt very pleased about my progression. In this god forsaken place there was to my surprise a bus stop where some hikers waited half the day to take a ride back to civilization. Not for me, I ran all the way down. Ten miles at very high pace. Arriving in the valley, I decided to run another 5 kilometers towards Benasque, as I had run out of money and the following days, no major towns to retrieve some, were in sight.
Benasque is a vivid town in the middle of the Pyrenees. Countless shops selling mountain equipment, restaurants, hotels and bars. Streets filled with visitors, from adventurers to tourists of all kind make this town a lively and pleasantly stop after fifteen days in the mountains. Never the less, I was to tired to really enjoy it and spent most of my time checking the map to find an alternative route over the mountains talking me in one day to the National Parc of Ordessa and Monte Perdido.
Just before dawn I left Benasque, uncertain about the route as I had drawn a straight line on my map, talking me over the mountains towards Circo de la Pineta. At first I was following the valley to the south, in order to reach a small river. I started following this river straight up, but soon realized that no other human being ever passes here, as there was no trace of a path at all. Never the less I continued, soon finding myself in great difficulties to wrench myself through the dense forest. The underground was very wet and my feet disappeared deep in the mud. Once over the tree frontier, I left the river behind me heading more eastwards towards the top, but here very dense brambles formed an almost impossible obstacle to go through. As I crawled myself a way through it, I suddenly found huge marks of what seemed to be the imprint of a bear paw. As the bushes ahead of me showed damage and the traces coincided with it, I was sure that I was finding myself near a bear. Eastern European bears have been reintroduced in the Pyrenees and after several attempts there are a few small populations who seem to have adapted very well. I didn't have a map of where these populations are located, but as I knew, their preferred habitat is dense vegetation. Exactly the kind of which I was struggling myself a way through. A little further I found excrements, dark and big turds the size of tennis balls. Not fresh, but not dried up as well. So I started to prepare myself for an encounter with the largest wild mammal in Europe. I know you have to make noise, in order not to surprise the animal, so I started singing, which helped me to control the mixed feelings of excitement and fear. Bear attacks are very rare, but you never know, so I was extra aware, imagining how I would react if ever I was face to face to such a marvelous animal. Control the impulse of running away, even if he comes towards you, as then for sure you are considered to be chased and he will hunt you down. Before I knew it I reached a pasture not far from the top of the mountain. I haven't seen bears and didn't know if I had to be happy are disappointed about it. After a long climb I started running in the direction of the opposite mountain range. My progression was light and fast, as if the whole bear story had given me wings. I found myself on the southern flank of the Pic de Posets, descending over well practicable forest roads towards the valley of Gistain. Once down there I followed the river up north for a while just until I found a path leading east and up the mountain. No living soul around, drinking water from a stream, the bears didn't leave my mind for a minute that day. I climbed over the col and ran down a steep mountain side, arriving after a few hours in the small town of Parzan at the entrance of the Valle de Circo de la Pineta. Climbing up the circo means arriving in the Reserva Natural de Ordessa et Monte Perdido. But dark clouds filled the sky and as I checked my phone, I saw that Marc from 'Weather for Expeditions' warned me to be very careful the next two days. 'Avoid the high peaks, stay low because of the thunderstorms' is the message. I was extremely tired. I ran the whole day without eating, drinking water from the streams, passing completely beyond fixed routes, villages or other signs of civilization.
I had four days left to complete a distance of about 240 kilometers of which the first two days were situated above 2000 meters. Alternatives would cost me a lot more time. Even in good weather conditions, I would have to take some risks to get to the ocean by friday evening. I hesitated a while and suddenly saw clearly that I had to end this wonderful pedestrian journey here. I hesitated for a long time, but the truth was that it would be very dangerous by rain and lightning to run over the high peaks of Ordessa. Through the valleys would take me to far. Even if I took the risk, nothing assured me that I would have the energy left to complete the last two days and arrive before friday evening. It would have been running with great stress and this had never been the goal of this voyage. Running with pleasure, respecting the laws of nature was what I had been doing all along and I was eager to keep it that way. So I stopped, or, not really...
After a quick bite in Parzan, I climbed up the mountain again. with the idea to run southwards on the ridge. I already ran 60 kilometers that day and knowing it was the end of it, gave me new energy, hungry to enjoy it as long as I could. I certainly would have continued for much longer, but by 6.30 in the evening heavy rain and hail the size of ping pong balls fell down painfully and forced me to turn towards the first village in sight. I arrived soaking wet at the lobby of a small hotel in the village of San Juan de Plan. After a good shower I went to the restaurant. There, I had a phone call with my wife, children and Marc, explaining them I had to stop there, without any regrets. It had been by far the most amazing physical and mental achievement in my life. A journey never to forget.
My views on running, the mountains and their nature have changed radically. Lots of things can be said about what I have learned over there and I assume some of these thoughts are worth sharing in the form of a book. Weather you run or not, my story can be of any value as it gives us a different insight in our own nature, the surrounding nature and the way we relate to it, in these complex modern times. Over the years that I've been running, I have collected multiple stories about great runners who ran distances beyond all imagination. Man is 'born to run', as the famous book by Christopher McDougall explains. We didn't got out of the trees to sit down all day. My experience and evolution as a long distance runner have confirmed this for me. It's all about discovering your own capacities and developing them with healthy methods.
Despite giving up and a long and difficult trajectory with public transport, I arrived with a good feeling in Irun, Hondarrabia. I was filled with great joy about what I had been able to do and live for the last two weeks. Relieved to find my car at the airport car park, I decided to run all the way up to Cabo Higuer, about 7 kilometers further up. Running along the busy road leading me there, was quite stressful but the last part went over the coastal path and was pure pleasure. It really felt like victory ! Aware of the incredible amount of kilometers and high meters I had run. Over countless mountains, through magnificent valleys driven by my own two feet, from the mediterranean Sea to the Atlantic Ocean. 650 kilometers and 36000 meters of total ascent as I had calculated over the maps and was indicated on the logbook of my Suunto watch ! Sure, if I would have been able to do the last 240 kilometers from Ordessa up to Cabo Higuer running, it would have been a great plus. But not having done that doesn't taste bitter, but wise and couldn't spoil the great feeling of achieving something incredible arriving at the ocean running. One day, I'll return to these mountains,...
It's not over till it's over
So that's it ? Not really, I'm considering new adventures and enjoy my training sessions every day...
Thanks for reading me, see you soon,
Dominiek De Meulemeester
INTO THE WILD, OVER BEARS TERRITORY
Just before dawn I left Benasque, uncertain about the route as I had drawn a straight line on my map, talking me over the mountains towards Circo de la Pineta. At first I was following the valley to the south, in order to reach a small river. I started following this river straight up, but soon realized that no other human being ever passes here, as there was no trace of a path at all. Never the less I continued, soon finding myself in great difficulties to wrench myself through the dense forest. The underground was very wet and my feet disappeared deep in the mud. Once over the tree frontier, I left the river behind me heading more eastwards towards the top, but here very dense brambles formed an almost impossible obstacle to go through. As I crawled myself a way through it, I suddenly found huge marks of what seemed to be the imprint of a bear paw. As the bushes ahead of me showed damage and the traces coincided with it, I was sure that I was finding myself near a bear. Eastern European bears have been reintroduced in the Pyrenees and after several attempts there are a few small populations who seem to have adapted very well. I didn't have a map of where these populations are located, but as I knew, their preferred habitat is dense vegetation. Exactly the kind of which I was struggling myself a way through. A little further I found excrements, dark and big turds the size of tennis balls. Not fresh, but not dried up as well. So I started to prepare myself for an encounter with the largest wild mammal in Europe. I know you have to make noise, in order not to surprise the animal, so I started singing, which helped me to control the mixed feelings of excitement and fear. Bear attacks are very rare, but you never know, so I was extra aware, imagining how I would react if ever I was face to face to such a marvelous animal. Control the impulse of running away, even if he comes towards you, as then for sure you are considered to be chased and he will hunt you down. Before I knew it I reached a pasture not far from the top of the mountain. I haven't seen bears and didn't know if I had to be happy are disappointed about it. After a long climb I started running in the direction of the opposite mountain range. My progression was light and fast, as if the whole bear story had given me wings. I found myself on the southern flank of the Pic de Posets, descending over well practicable forest roads towards the valley of Gistain. Once down there I followed the river up north for a while just until I found a path leading east and up the mountain. No living soul around, drinking water from a stream, the bears didn't leave my mind for a minute that day. I climbed over the col and ran down a steep mountain side, arriving after a few hours in the small town of Parzan at the entrance of the Valle de Circo de la Pineta. Climbing up the circo means arriving in the Reserva Natural de Ordessa et Monte Perdido. But dark clouds filled the sky and as I checked my phone, I saw that Marc from 'Weather for Expeditions' warned me to be very careful the next two days. 'Avoid the high peaks, stay low because of the thunderstorms' is the message. I was extremely tired. I ran the whole day without eating, drinking water from the streams, passing completely beyond fixed routes, villages or other signs of civilization.
AN UNEXPECTED TURN
I had four days left to complete a distance of about 240 kilometers of which the first two days were situated above 2000 meters. Alternatives would cost me a lot more time. Even in good weather conditions, I would have to take some risks to get to the ocean by friday evening. I hesitated a while and suddenly saw clearly that I had to end this wonderful pedestrian journey here. I hesitated for a long time, but the truth was that it would be very dangerous by rain and lightning to run over the high peaks of Ordessa. Through the valleys would take me to far. Even if I took the risk, nothing assured me that I would have the energy left to complete the last two days and arrive before friday evening. It would have been running with great stress and this had never been the goal of this voyage. Running with pleasure, respecting the laws of nature was what I had been doing all along and I was eager to keep it that way. So I stopped, or, not really...
After a quick bite in Parzan, I climbed up the mountain again. with the idea to run southwards on the ridge. I already ran 60 kilometers that day and knowing it was the end of it, gave me new energy, hungry to enjoy it as long as I could. I certainly would have continued for much longer, but by 6.30 in the evening heavy rain and hail the size of ping pong balls fell down painfully and forced me to turn towards the first village in sight. I arrived soaking wet at the lobby of a small hotel in the village of San Juan de Plan. After a good shower I went to the restaurant. There, I had a phone call with my wife, children and Marc, explaining them I had to stop there, without any regrets. It had been by far the most amazing physical and mental achievement in my life. A journey never to forget.
My views on running, the mountains and their nature have changed radically. Lots of things can be said about what I have learned over there and I assume some of these thoughts are worth sharing in the form of a book. Weather you run or not, my story can be of any value as it gives us a different insight in our own nature, the surrounding nature and the way we relate to it, in these complex modern times. Over the years that I've been running, I have collected multiple stories about great runners who ran distances beyond all imagination. Man is 'born to run', as the famous book by Christopher McDougall explains. We didn't got out of the trees to sit down all day. My experience and evolution as a long distance runner have confirmed this for me. It's all about discovering your own capacities and developing them with healthy methods.
THE OCEAN !
Despite giving up and a long and difficult trajectory with public transport, I arrived with a good feeling in Irun, Hondarrabia. I was filled with great joy about what I had been able to do and live for the last two weeks. Relieved to find my car at the airport car park, I decided to run all the way up to Cabo Higuer, about 7 kilometers further up. Running along the busy road leading me there, was quite stressful but the last part went over the coastal path and was pure pleasure. It really felt like victory ! Aware of the incredible amount of kilometers and high meters I had run. Over countless mountains, through magnificent valleys driven by my own two feet, from the mediterranean Sea to the Atlantic Ocean. 650 kilometers and 36000 meters of total ascent as I had calculated over the maps and was indicated on the logbook of my Suunto watch ! Sure, if I would have been able to do the last 240 kilometers from Ordessa up to Cabo Higuer running, it would have been a great plus. But not having done that doesn't taste bitter, but wise and couldn't spoil the great feeling of achieving something incredible arriving at the ocean running. One day, I'll return to these mountains,...
It's not over till it's over
So that's it ? Not really, I'm considering new adventures and enjoy my training sessions every day...
Thanks for reading me, see you soon,
Dominiek De Meulemeester
