FIRST EPISODE 

SOLO RUN OVER THE PEAKS OF THE PYRENEES SIXTEEN DAYS, 650 KM AND 36000 ASCENT

Dear readers, 

It's time to share one of the greatest adventures I've ever lived. A journey alone, on my two feet, running as fast as I can from Cap de Creus  at the mediterranean over the Pyrenean mountain range towards Cabo Higuer an the Atlantic Ocean.

EXITING AND VERY HOT DEPARTURE

I started off from Cadaques after a refreshing soda on a terrace by the Mediterranean Sea. Wishing the statue of Salvador Dali all the best, I ran along the coastline towards Cap de Creus. About 14km in extremely hot conditions. My plan was to sleep in my tent somewhere near the cape and set of by dawn the following morning for the real take off. After a refreshing bath in a small bay, I felt reborn and decided to take some advance, running up to Port de la Selva. The terrain was fairly rough and not many people go hiking in this area. I met no one, except a black goat, looking down on me from a ruined wall of what seems to have been a chapel once. Darkness fell and I was glad to see the lights of the town in the large bay. I planted my tent in a camping, where the cook was friendly enough to reopen his kitchen and prepare me an excellent fish dish.

The next day I set of by dawn deciding to stay near the sea up to Lanca. Somehow I wanted to enjoy the sea as long as I could. Mixed feelings of real excitement about the long run through the mountains and some apprehension about the pains that would be part of it kept me from a quick start. Before engaging landward, I went into town for basic supplies. Sandwiches, a can off sardines, tomatoes, Iberico ham and water. I got slightly frustrated as I had to search for the GR track for over an hour. No one I asked seemed to have any idea where 'la senda' is located. Finally I found my way and took off for a climb, which was nothing compared to what was to come in the higher mountains, but the sun was literally melting me.

Another property off this region is that all plants are prickly. My legs got scratched all over, here and there deep enough to create bloody lines on the surface of my skin. The heat was going to have a price. In the afternoon I reached Sant Quirze de Colera and threatening clouds appeared in the sky. The church and abbey are in full renovation and not a visitor around. The refuge was closed and some hostile dogs were not really reassuring to plant my tent on the terrace. The multiple 'no camping' signs contributed to my decision to continue running. I wasn't very far from the top and 'Weather for expeditions' warned me to stay in the valleys in nasty weather, especially electrical storms. So I climbed over the summit, found a well hidden fountain downhill to fill my reserves of water and ran down searching a place to camp that seemed secure.

FEAREST STORM I'VE EVER LIVED

I found a dry riverbed, covered by cork oaks surrounded by open fields in the valley. As I set up my tent the first raindrops started to fall. At 1a.m. a terrible thunder stroke waked me up. This was the beginning of  the longest night I've ever known. I must have been in the eye of the storm. Lightning smashed around me. Counting didn't last more than three counts and the rain was so heavy that my North Face tent started to leak, leaving me but a small space of dry underground where I could sit. I felt stupid. My mobile phone was out of reach. If the tree above me got hit I might get stuck, injured or worse. Fear and cold got a hold of me. The whole night I sat up, by moments paralyzed by a stroke only meters away from me. Asking myself if I should leave my tent or stay. Both options could be suicide.

By 6 a.m. it calmed down and the rain made place for severe winds that made it a difficult operation to fold my tent. A tree, just 30 meters further up, was split in half. I ran away from this place as quickly as I could, nose in the wind and gradually calmed down.

THE FOX, DOLMEN, CASTLE OF REQUESENS AND BURNED DOWN WOODS

Somehow my sleepless night had awaken me twice. I realized more than ever that if I want to make it safely throughout this expedition, I must listen to the signs of nature. Anticipate better and find real shelter in case of stormy weather. Every year people die in the mountains, often because they let them be surprised by storms. Whenever Marc or Fritz from 'Weather for expeditions' warn me, I'll adapt. Time is not the first priority, safety is. I also felt extremely vivid and alive that morning. A fox ran just in front of me on a single track, from time to time hiding in the bushes to pop up again seconds later. I passed along many dolmen, and the formations of natural rocks on top of the hills appeared like artistic sculptures. But I was tired and many times I missed a red-white sign of the GR11, making extra miles to get back on track. I ate a plate of local specialties of dried meat and bread spread with tomato, garlic and olive oil at a bar near the castle of Requesens. The medieval fortress dominates the surroundings. Two dutch couples arrived and found great interest in my plan on running all the way to the atlantic ocean. As they obtained the key to the castle, they invited me to join them for an exclusive visit. But I thanked them for the offer and set of towards La Jonquiera. The climb on pista was very nice and I climbed over the top instead of following the path that went around it. Beyond me a death wood of charcoaled trees was to cross. As the rigid branches were unavoidable, I got covered in black stripes. I was to tired to continue after the blank night and decided to sleep in a bed in the border town of La Jonquiera. The lady at the counter of the motel seemed to hesitated if she would give me a room or not. Once I saw my face in the mirror, covered in sweat and black charcoal stripes, I understood her doubts.

VOLCANIC GAROTXA

The following days took me through Garotxa, a landscape of green covered mountains in deciduous trees, here and there crowned by majestic blocks of volcanic rock. It was extremely warm. Sometimes I ran in temperatures above 40 °C, which was slowing me down considerable. I enjoyed the effort, feeling privileged being out there. I keep good memories of a small restaurant run by Luigi in Vajol, the refreshing swim in the river and the fresh water from the fountain in Sant Aniol de Ajuda, beautiful ruins where the experience of loneliness is sharper than ever,  the night amongst the cows in my tent at Taixala, the beautiful town of Cabanys where I bought a nice and useful pocket knife. On the way to Beget more ruins, that made me dream of living here. Beget with his roman church and river running through the small and peaceful medieval streets forced this feeling. I took a long stop there over noon to recover, on the terrace of a small restaurant, where a beautiful young woman served me pan con tomate and Jamon Ibérico.

But I also mistook myself several times of route. Trying to take a cut of I found myself surrounded by bees, who clearly liked my perfume of sweat. As I looked up, I found myself in the middle of about 20 hives. I stepped back slowly and little by little they abandoned my skin for real flowers. Just a shiver, not a sting. After a refreshing coke and a sandwich at Can Nou, I took a wrong direction and had to run 3 hours to get back on track. I kind off climbed over the Bassegoda instead of surrounding him. At this point I didn't mourn about mistakes. Better keep my energy for the road, than to loose it in useless frustration and anger, which doesn't solve the problem. After tree days I arrived in Mollo. Due to the heat these first days have not been as fast as I had hoped. It's simply crazy to run fully exposed in the sun in temperatures above 40 degrees. My feet also suffered, due to the transpiration, there is more friction inside my minimal shoes and blisters and some wounds appeared. I've decided to have an early stop in Mollo, to take a good rest and take care of my feet.

THE BULL AND THE VULTURES

A day full of adrenaline. From Mollo I climbed up. At a certain point I passed a fence, still thinking I was in the right direction. On top I suddenly found myself eye to eye with a massive bull, who immediately roared and took an aggressive posture. Instinctively I took a step backwards and he charged towards me. The fence was about 30meters on my left and I literally ran for my life, the bull coming less then a meter behind me. I threw my backpack over the fence to lose weight and jumped just in time over it. The beast stopped roaring and heavily breathing, running up and down the hill along the fence. I lost a water bottle in my escape, but decided he could keep it as a trophy. My legs were shaking. As I moved upwards the mountain, I realized I should never have crossed the fence at all. The path markings were back on the side I was on. The farmers who placed the electric fence just didn't pay attention and crossed the marks as they made a loop.

As I slowly became of the passed emotion, I suddenly spotted a group of big oval masses in a field about 50 meters on my left. A better look, confirmed my first thought. A whole colony of vultures was spread out over the field and the treetops. From time to time they flew up to strike down on a pine tree, others circled around in the warm air. A great spectacle which drove away the remains of the past emotion with the 'torro'.

Down the hill I past the skeleton of a horse. The tale and some skin still on it. The poor animal must have fallen on this difficult terrain and was left to die. This was a strange day. A superstitious person would certainly see nothing but signs of dead in all this. To me, after a few days completely by myself in these vast mountain range, it's part of life. The first days I coped with anxiety, as evening fell and I found myself in the middle of nowhere. But very quickly this went over. You get used to the noises in the forests and higher plains. Being alone no longer means lonely, but peace.

OVER THE PEAKS TOWARDS NURIA

In Setcases I took some forces before engaging a huge climb up to Refuge d'Ulldeter. Warm, again, but the climbing goes extremely well. I arrived at the refuge much faster then I expected and took some time to eat an rehydrate. An Italian couple asks me what brings me there. They look at me with a mixture of admiration, unbelief and concern. I passed a nice moment talking to these romans, who were wandering from Andorra to Cadaques in three weeks, taking all the time they can. Kind of the opposite of what I am doing, but not less attractive. What follows was my first real experience of high altitude on this trip. I ran over the same peaks I did a year ago, during the Ultra Trail d'Emmona. The high valley that took me there was full of wildlife. Izards, marmots allover the field and circling raptors in the sky. I also passed half wild horses and of course cows. The climb went extremely well. At 2900 meters, I could start running along the ridge on the edge of the peaks. Freedom ! It felt like flying. Moving like a wild animal in a mineral world, dotted by snowfields and ice cold lakes, right and left of me the deep and eagles flying at less than 50 meters beside me. This is as close you can get to heaven.

Downwards to Nuria, more wild animals and cows crossed my path. I arrived just before the rain and the first thunderstorm of that night. After a few days in my tent, I decided to go for a room in the luxury hotel of Nuria, besides the church. A warm bath, a good washing of my clothes and shoes, taking care of my feet, a richly filled buffet and a good night sleep, made me feel reborn in the morning. Heavy rains and thunder delayed my departure. Fortunately it went over quickly and I found myself running with new energy once again through a landscape of rocks and pastures of unimaginable beauty.

DOGS THAT BITE AND A FRIGHTFUL CLIMB

My feet slowed me down, but from time to time, your body seems to forget the pain. Over Planoles towards Puigcerda, I arrived in very small mountain village where I got instantly attacked by a bunch of dogs, about ten I guess. A local peasant woman called them back just in time. As I took water by the fountain and started running again, the dogs chased me again. I stopped, but one of them bit me in the lower leg. I kicked him and they took of. The wound was pretty deep, making a question marked shape from his canine. I immediately washed it out in the fountain and disinfected it, but the following days it would continue bleeding, as the sweat doesn't allow the wound to get a crust. Ever since I was a kid I've adored dogs, and this is the first time I ever got bitten. In Portugal I've often been chased by dogs, as in small mountain villages they wander around in freedom, but usually as you stop and turn towards them, they withdraw. This dog seemed so angry, that I had some worries about rabies. But as I still don't bark as I'm writing this down, I guess he was okay.

Later that day I saw three hikers starting to climb towards a pass where no path lies at all. A glimpse in the GR11 guide, tolled me there is a place where no markings are made and you have to climb up. But in my opinion it was to early. After quit some hesitation, meanwhile eating a energy bar, I engage the climb as well. I realized climbing up, this wasn't the right way, but decided to go straight up and see up there how to move further on. Very steep climbing, which demanded all my attention not to fall, got me safely on top. The hikers had abandoned and went down again east of me. I had no idea were I was, but decided to go for a run on compass. This delivered me a great experience, going straight through and over everything from rock formations to grassy fields and woods. After about ten kilometers of up and down running above 2000 meters I met a group of french mushroom pickers. Puigcerda was still a long way to go, as I found myself in France. First I arrived in a town called Osséja. The contrast with the vivid atmosphere in Spain was confronting. Except the two bars around the church the town seemed abandoned. I quickly ran through it and had to run about 7 kilometers on the road towards Puigcerda. The heat was unbearable. I arrived completely dehydrated and ordered a big cervessa and a bottle of sparkling water at the first bar I found. 

See you very soon for the next episode...